Quick impressions now that my newest 404 is home
Last night I went down to Jay Couch's place and picked up my 404 that
has been chilling its heels down at his place. It needed some TLC to
replace several broken bits, but now it's home. It has some
electrical wonkiness that I need to fix before I drive her too much,
but I could not resist today, so I fired her up, got her all nice and
warm, and took her for a spin around "town" (a few blocks of dirt
roads with about a dozen buildings).
Mmmm. Buttery.
Even with finicky, just-not-quite-right Solex carbs on it (I'm
probably going to get a Weber swap kit from JAM Engineering to replace
them), the M130 in it makes it a veritable rocket sled. I can _not_
wait to get the few pesky little issues it still has cleaned up, get
it licensed, and take it out somewhere to really play with it.
My other truck is a Swiss, so I never had to mess with the weird
little German fuses, and the electrical wonkiness in the truck already
saw me burn one out, so I am looking at my options. I am thinking
that the most sensible thing might be to just replace those original
fuse panels with panels for ATC style fuses, since they are readily
available, and there are ATC footprint circuit breakers available,
should I want to run breakers instead of fuses on any of the circuits.
Anyone have any favorite automotive electrical suppliers?
Also, right now the cooling system is a little jury rigged. It has 2
12v fans running in series. I have found what look like decent 24v
fans at okoffroad.com. Anyone have any experience with them, or have
any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Kirk Haines
1963 Swiss 404
1960 German 404 w/ M130
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On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 9:52 AM, Brian K. Sadler wrote:
> I have one of those tachs. The most important thing is that they are 12V
> and should INCLUDE a step-down resistor for the power wire from your
> vehicle. They are small, just smaller than the rubber-plugged gauge
> openings in the 404 panel -- you need to fabricate a small plate out of some
> aluminum scrap -- and the full sweep 6,000 rpm limit is OK, given the M180's
> power range is 2-4 thousand rpm. And, the price is right . . .
The tach in my truck is a VDO tach with a 7000 rpm limit. It is a 12v
model, but its power supply is routed through a resistor to step it
down to 12v. Seems to work well in the limited testing I've been able
to give it so far.
Kirk Haines
'63 Swiss 404
'60 German 404 w/ M130
I did find the German fuses at NAPA. I also ordered some small fuse
blocks that look like they should drop in right where the German
truck's existing fuse blocks are at. I'm still thinking that I will
replace those with ATC style fuses because then I can use ATC
footprint circuit breakers.
My air filter was sourced from the car that donated the engine. I was
told it was a 1976 280S, but it doesn't appear that there were 280S's
in 1976 that had M130s in them. It's got dual Zenith 35/40 carbs, with
a 250A stamp, like Bigmellon's M130 he talks about in his Heavy
Cleaning thread. So, I am surmising a similar origin for my engine.
Regardless, though, the air filter assembly still doesn't appear to
match what was used there. It's a Mann assembly using a circular
filter about 5 inches tall, with an inner diameter of about 5 inches,
and an outer diameter of about 7 5/8ths inches. The NAPA filter guy
found something really close to it, so I've ordered one of those, to
see if it'll work. Otherwise, I'm going to have to rethink my air
intake.
I've also ordered some 24v Facet-Purolator fuel pumps so that I can
have front and rear tanks wired onto separate pumps. The fuel pump is
currently a 12v Carter pump that gets it's power through a big
step-down resistor, and fuel is available from the rear tank only.
My turn signals kept blowing fuses, but I have tracked that down, too.
It seems that at some point at least a couple wires in the bundle
heading to the right side had been stripped and reinsulated with
electrical tape. Then the whole bundled had been sealed back up with
more electrical tape (the old covering had been removed in that spot).
My guess is that maybe the wires were tapped into at that point, and
then the work was sort of reversed?
In any event, it appears that over time the electrical tape insulation
had failed, causing wires to come into contact, which in turn caused a
short which caused a small electrical fire to melt away much of the
electrical tape inner insulation, creating an even bigger mix of
comingling wires, while leaving the outer cover of tape relatively
intact.
No that I have tracked that down, 3 of the 4 signal lights work. I
just need to properly reconnect those messed up wires and I'll have
working signal lights.
So, maybe the first of next week I'll be able to take her in and get
her licensed.
Looking forward to the end of my work day so that I can go clean up
that electrical system further.
Kirk Haines
'63 Swiss 404
'60 German 404 w/ M130
What's the big deal on Sprint and Blackberry ???
http://community.webtv.net/bkeir/MogPics
It's the default signature line on his Blackberry.
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 5:24 PM, Paul Nevens wrote:
> What's the big deal on Sprint and Blackberry ???
>
>
>
>
>
>
> http://community.webtv.net/bkeir/MogPics
>
>
>
No but tell me if the 24volt fans work. Any one have gauge ideas? Looking for a tach
Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 6:16 PM, wrote:
> No but tell me if the 24volt fans work. Any one have gauge ideas? Looking for a tach
My new truck does have a tach. Seems to work fine. I'll take a look
tomorrow and see what make it is.
Kirk Haines
1963 Swiss 404
1960 German 404 w/ M130
Check out Swiss Army Vehicles for a tach. I haven't used one of these myself, but I understand them to be 24V.
http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.php?cat=unimog&partno=SAV1404
Kirk,
The tach on your 1960 is a 12V unit if I remember correctly.
Justin
1963 404.1 Hard Cab/TLF-8